Good Lifestyle

Even if you have never tried to surf, you know whoLaird Hamilton is. One of the biggest names in extreme sports, he practically invented the modern form of the big wave pipe two decades ago. And today, at age 53, there remains one of the most conditioned athletes in the world. Here, the subject of the new documentaryTake all the waves: Laird Hamilton's lifeRemember the time he was facing truly monster waves and lived to tell tale.

"One morning, I heard the monsters who pivoted the north shore of Maui. The big waves often get up during the night. You lie in your bed and try to sleep, but you can feel the waves that break. When a 80 feet Parseme, the Foundation of the house tremble. That's why I live in Maui: the waves come to you. It's my job to be ready for them.

"Word propagates fast enough that huge sets were formed; not at the famous World-Jaws jaws in Peahi, which can see clear from my house, but a few kilometers to the west, called external sprecks. I A phoned my long-lasting surfing partner Brett Lickle and directed to the beach.

"Brett had been a member of the" Strap Team "from the early 90s, the crew of big wave surfers I worked with the development of surfing technique using personal craft to tow a fasting surfer Between the waves. Style towing allows you to enter there enough waves to sink the ships. Many of my best rides on the biggest waves have been caught at the camera. But this morning, violent winds , rains and lack of visibility helicopters to earth. No cameras today. No cameras today.

"Brett and I went out of the Baldwin Beach Park on a three-seater motorcycle. A little less than an offshore mile, we reached the break of the external sprecks. The waves rolled in huge swelling, producing faces ranging from 50 to 80 feet. Just amazing. Imagine a 10-storey building that rushed you 30 miles per hour, followed, every 30 seconds, by another 10-storey building.

"That morning, there was no Wipeouts, just a superlative ride after the other. Brett would say later that I thought I would do better than ever, and that I had no cameras, There was even more special. We surfed in the morning, took a lunch break, then directed. The waves have risen even higher than in the morning and have been clusters even closer. Then Brett towed me in a Goliath , an 80 feet, at least, like a great wave we have ever seen.

"The trailer and the liberation have been gently, but I hit the wave a high shade on his face. I tried to go down the wave and go into the barrel, but I adjusted a beat too much late. Looking back, Brett and I did everything well. But sometimes in the ocean, being tight is not enough. I got out, knowing my tray on the right and jumping at the back of the wave , escaping the crusp of water.

"I jostled in the swell and Brett was swept on the motor to pick me up. The next wave wearing on us, so the moment I was on board, Brett tore from the coast. But I could hear the Rugging the wave behind us. A fraction of seconds later, we were eliminated from the motomarine as if by a giant hand.

"The wave held me under the water for 30 seconds. I could not move my arms or my legs. I tried not to panic and wait for my flotation vest to lift me on the surface. But holding your breath during 30 seconds When your heart is Magnium 200 beats a minute is like holding it for 5 minutes when sitting on a chair.

"Four giant waves have pushed us. Finally, we were hunted from the crash area. Brett float about 50 meters from me, but the motorcycle was a quarter-kilometer. I watched Brett and his face was gray. I need a garrot, he shouted.

"The aluminum fin of a spare board had sliced ​​the back of the left leg of the knee to the ankle. The blood flowed from the cut, softening the water. I immediately thought that it opened it. His femoral artery.

"No other surfers were in sight and we were half coast off. I realized that it was all about me. I stripped my combination and I tied it around his leg Top of the wound. Then I swam in a dead sprint to the motorized, think all the way, Brett bleeding to death. And all this blood will bring into tiger sharks. Man, what should I tell his wife? What am I saying to his children?

"I arrived at the motorcycle and the Tirai. The radiophone on board has always worked. So, I'm, Stark Nuking, withdrawing from the half-mile sprint and the beat I took waves, Calling 911 while I went back to pick up Brett.

"The sharks had not found it yet, but he did not seek better. I shouted in the coast with an arm around Brett and an ambulance met us on the beach. It turns out that the femoral artery From Brett was intact, but the wound would eventually need 53 staples to close.

"Once the ambulance took Brett and I knew it would be ok, I turned around and watched where the waves of the monster still broke on external sprecks. I had to go back. Identially. It might seem strange, But I live by a certain code. I do not compromise. On the other hand would honor my friend fallen. It would also approve all persistent fears. I see fear like a healthy and constructive emotion. In fact, as part of my diet. From workout, I always set a goal to be afraid once a day. I went back there and I went up. And it properly closed a terrible and triumphant day.

"Seeing, I look at my life as follows two lines on a graph. A line shows my physical systems, stuff like packaging, the maximum VO2 and the muscle fibers with rapid contraction, and this line is flattened or very gradually by declining all What I get older. The other line shows the intangible maturity, experience, judgment, passion, perspective - the gradual increase. The two lines go through an interesting place and I consider this place as my summit. It's not a point, but a tray. Your peak is not really a product of your body, but your enthusiasm. I intend to live on this plateau for a long time. "

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